Richard Neutra, the bridge between Taliesen and Bauhaus
March 5th, 2010
Richard Neutra, the quintessential California modernist architect, has made my stay in downtown Los Angeles worthwhile.
Los Angeles’ main library has an exhibition of Neutra’s sketches and drawings and I was able to take some pictures to share with you—these are my interpretations of his work:
I love these largely horizontal airy structures; they are so “modern”, you forget they were designed in 1920’s…
I admit that I had to leave California to miss it and nothing says more Los Angeles than this beautiful photo of the Stahl House by Pierre Koenig, another modernist architect:
the photographer, Julius Shulman, became famous by this one black and white shot from 1960 (above) and its color version (below):
Born in Vienna, Neutra (1892 - 1970) was influenced by his fellow Austrians, Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele (both died in 1918 when Neutra was 26 years old); this little painting of his could have been created by Klimt himself:
Another great influence on the young Neutra was Frank Lloyd Wright who invited Neutra to work in his studio in Taliesen. They rank him second only to the great Lloyd Wright in American architecture. Other early influences were Louis Sullivan (he coined “form follows function”), Otto Wagner and Erich Mendelsohn.
This sketch is the Van der Leeuw House solarium (complete with bathing beauties) that Neutra envisioned to build for himself:
Chairs (this one from 1919) weren’t the only things besides buildings that Neutra designed,
he even designed aluminum buses!
Richard Neutra, the romantic engineer, was passionate about art, technology and architecture—I love this drawing of a cellist playing Bach:
Leaving the cold winters and the world wars of Europe, Neutra took refuge in the sunny climate and rich landscape of Southern California; with his cool and sleek modern style he coined the term biorealism: “the inherent and inseparable relationship between man and nature.”
To see my favorite architects go here
Catch the exhibition at the L.A. Library here
My three Italian boy friends
February 23rd, 2010
I was late for my rendez-vous with Italo Calvino but he didn’t get mad; time is after all an elastic commodity for Italians…
Seamus Heany talked to me at length about him and encouraged me not to despair but how could I? Calvino suddenly died before I got to know him.
Of the Italian Princes so far I only knew Umberto Eco and Primo Levi; I got to like Eco a lot after he took me to see the movie The name of the Rose about twenty years ago. Umberto and Primo each deserve their own blog post but let’s continue with Calvino.
I liked so much what Calvino’s said about reading that I need to share it with you; read it and judge for yourself:
“In the shop window you have promptly identified the cover with the title you were looking for. Following this visual trail, you have forced your way through the shop past the thick barricade of Books You Haven’t Read, which are frowning at you from the tables and shelves, trying to cow you…And thus you pass the outer girdle of ramparts, but then you are attacked by the infantry of Books That If You Had More Than One Life You Would Certainly Also Read But Unfortunately Your Days Are Numbered. With a rapid maneuver you bypass them and move into the phalanxes of the Books You Mean To Read But There Are Others You Must Read First, the Books Too Expensive Now And You’ll Wait Till They’re Remaindered, the Books ditto When They Come Out in Paperback, Books You Can Borrow From Somebody, Books That Everybody’s Read So It’s As If You Had Read Them, Too. ”
The above image is that passage in wordle.
Gore Vidal wrote in 1985: “Europe regarded Calvino’s death as a calamity for culture.” and I agree. Italy is not just an operatic country with clowns like Berlusconi at its head…
A couple more quotes from Calvino:
“Novels as dull as dishwater, with the grease of random sentiments floating on top.”
“Only a certain prosaic solidity can give birth to creativity: fantasy is like jam; you have to spread it on a solid slice of bread. If not, it remains a shapeless thing, like jam, out of which you can’t make anything.”
Read about Calvino here
Vidal talking about him here
Love is in the (freezing )air…
February 14th, 2010
Another Valentine’s Day and another excuse to say I love you to people who matter—in the universal language of poetry and roses…
I am in love,
with Italo Calvino but he doesn’t care much about me…I have to dedicate a post to him!
“Mon bel amour mon cher amour ma déchirure
Je te porte dans moi comme un oiseau blessé
Et ceux-là sans savoir nous regardent passer
Répétant après moi les mots que j’ai tressés
Et qui pour tes grands yeux tout aussitôt moururent” Aragon
Let’s stay in Europe with an Irish poet:
“Her scarf a la Bardot,
In suede flats for the walk,
She came with me one evening
For air and friendly talk.
We crossed the quiet river,
Took the embankment walk.” Seamus Heaney
Some sexy poetry from the good old English poet:
“The things about you I appreciate
May seem indelicate:
I’d like to find you in the shower
And chase the soap for half an hour.
I’d like to have you in my power
And see your eyes dilate.” John Fuller
I wish all of my friends a very sweet Valentine:
One last poem from Fereydoon Moshiri:
بگذار که بر شاخه این صبح دلاویز
بنشینم و از عشق سرودی بسرایم
آنگاه به صد شوق چو مرغان سبکبال
پر گیرم ازین بام و به سوی تو بیایم
خورشید از آن دور از آن قله پر برف
آغوش کند باز همه مهر همه ناز
سیمرغ طلایی پر و بالی است که چون من
از لانه برون آمده دارد سر پرواز
پرواز به آنجا که نشاط است و امیدست
پرواز به آنجا که سرود است و سرور است
آنجا که سراپای تو در روشنی صبح
رویای شرابی است که در جام بلور است
“I’d like to be your only audience,
The final name in your appointment book,
Your future tense.”
If this wasn’t enough to satisfy your Valentine’s cravings you can see more of Valentine 2009 here and Valentine 2008 here.
To here all the above poetry read by a great voice go here.
Persian Rug: a paradise at your feet
February 3rd, 2010
Being Iranian, I am fascinated by Persian rugs and the exquisite uniqueness that defines them. The art of carpet weaving in Iran is deeply connected with the culture and the customs of the country.
Being away from California, surrounded by snow in Switzerland and far from my natural “soft fascinations” (read flowers, sunshine, rustling trees) I am experiencing a funny sense of “ecoanxiety” that may be cured by writing about my favorite permanent garden: the Persian Rug…
The designs (naghsheh or cartoon—a grid on paper with spaces colored to guide rug weavers in selecting pile yarns) are still mostly drawn by hand even though computers are doing wonders in this field.
Iranians are literally conceived, born and brought up on Persian rugs! Warmed by their soft and comfortable texture, touching, caressing, lying down and relaxing on them, comes naturally to Persians. The rugs add warmth underfoot like my favorite red carpet with these gorgeous Shah Abbasi patterns (with floral and leaf motifs mainly in the form of lotus blossoms):
The density of tightly woven Persian knots (or guereh) are the calibrating tool for the quality of the rug,
a good Nain rug may have 500 kpsi or 500 knots per square inch (farsibaaf, asymmetric or Persian pile knot.)
This is how a flower looks on the back of this Nain (Na’in):
and the same carpet from the front:
Like most textiles, carpets consist of warps (tar) and wefts (pud). The warps are the threads running the length of the carpet. The wefts are the threads that run across its breadth. This is the same carpet spread out:
Persian rugs go by region (cities mostly— like Tabriz, Esfahan, Nain, Kashan, Kerman, etc…) and each region has its MasterWeaver brand. A small encased signature can usually be found in the minor border like Habibian in Nain, Pirouzian in Tabriz and Taghavi in Bijar.
The most important signature must be Maqsud Kashani’s (from 1540) on the famous pair of Ardabil Carpets. A poem of Hafez is woven into the cartouche:
“Except for thy threshold, there is no refuge for me in all the world.
Except for this door there is no resting place for my head.”
جز آستان توام در جهان پناهی نیست
سر مرا بجز این در حواله گاهی نیست
The Ardabil Carpets have an interesting story: the lower field and border of one of them has been used to restore the other (now in Victoria and Albert Museum in London). The used and abused twin sister was kept in the dark (not to outshine the V&A version) until 1931 and finally found her way to Los Angeles County Museum of Art in 1965.
After exhaustive restoration done to the dazzling beauty, the LACMA sister was finally shown last year (look at how they had to wash it!)
The Ardabil carpets are the world’s oldest dated and historically important carpets in the world. This is the twin sister in Victoria and Albert museum in London:

It all comes down to this fundamental design that I just finished reproducing for the blog:
A love for fine Farsh (rug in persian) may be one of the few things that Shahs and Mullahs have always agreed upon!
Even though I have visited the great Manufacture des Gobelins some years ago,
I am dying to see the real thing in Iran,
and take some great pictures.
I will leave you with this superb painting of my favorite Orientalist painter, Gerôme, called The Carpet Merchant (ca 1887):
A great site to get acquainted with Persian rugs: Farsh Mashad
Weaving Art Museum here
About different motifs and style here
Port-au-Prince: Capital of Pain
January 19th, 2010
ca·lam·i·tiy:
1 : a state of deep distress or misery caused by major misfortune or loss
2 : a disastrous event marked by great loss and lasting distress and suffering
This “bar-coded” child is the symbol of the total helplessness of people in Port-au-Prince.
I am heartbroken by the utter distress/despair of Haiti. So much misery and suffering caused by a few seconds of random natural violence…
“Tout est enfin divisé
Tout se deforme et se perd
Tout se brise et disparait
La mort sans conséquences”
“Everything is finally divided
Everything is deformed and lost
All breaks and disappears
Death without consequences” Eluard
I wonder how Basquiat would have seen all this suffering in his fatherland; he painted some prescient images in 1980’s…
Damon Winter has taken striking pictures of the inconsolable Haiti.
Different shades of white
January 10th, 2010
White is the color of purity, cleanliness, and innocence…or is it? I am surrounded and inspired by it lately and these are my white (ivory, ecru, eggshell, etc…) images:
I went out to take pictures yesterday; I love the quiet that sits with the snow,
even when it gets dark early.
These are my shoes,
and this is not,
these are LeNôtre’s shoes:
on more recent creations, this is a white interior,
and a very expensive exterior,
and people who can’t afford it:
Four white dogs,
and some not so white ones,
a white wedding gown,
a much simpler one,
and some pretty pearls to go with it,
and a white church to complete it!
Some punctual white statues,

and some timeless ones:
Sunlight flirting with a quiet white curtain,
in need of music:
to dance the “Swan Lake”,
or some other dance in white pants:
back in good old California, some white table at the Huntley’s:
with some great coffee in white cups,
white on white:
and San Vicente’s majestic magnolias…

see “my green movement” here
my “red post” here
2009, an annus horribilis
December 31st, 2009
Tis the season…
December 25th, 2009
To be jolly…in Zurich?
It snowed last week here and I was giddy like all the snow-starved Californians until the -13 C (10 F) hit me…
The above image is Zurich’s Grossmunster, a beautiful church that I went to last night, on Christmas eve, to see how the Swiss celebrate Jesus’ birthday:
Before I got there I stopped at Lindenhof and I was surprised by this lovely bird (or a winged rat as some people call it) who was not afraid of me and kept drinking from the fountain in spite of me and my big camera…
I am so close here,
Frohe Weihnachten!
Strasbourg Christmas, an Augmented Reality
December 19th, 2009
Strasbourgers in the Alsace region of France claim that they are the “Christmas Capital” of Europe so as a good muslim I went there to check.
Well, they keep saying it everywhere:
It was a very cold day but thousands of poeple were swarming the streets of this beautiful Alsatian city:
walking up and down narrow streets,
They have no pity for their babies fighting the cold,
maybe because they drink this mulled wine called “Vin Chaud” (hot wine) or “Gluehwein” (in german): a concoction usually prepared from red wine, heated and spiced with cinnamon sticks, vanilla pods, cloves, citrus and sugar. They sell it in every other stand on the big Christmas market in Strasbourg:
I saw my first chocolate covered “strawberry kababs”:
Strasbourg is home to one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Europe:
where Jesus’ birth will be celebrated this year with pomp and thousands of little ornaments made in Alsace (read China):
The market is not close to the big church but right at its feet with Santa Claus himself selling some of the stuff:
Here is Alsace in all its glory (albeit in miniature):
and colors,
with little chefs baking for the big birthday (Jesus’, remember?)
and big chefs of course making macaroons:
but for people with a weakness for great pastry I have a better treat:
The above are Christmas Buches but Christian Patisserie—that I discovered a couple of years ago on my first trip to Alsace—is known for its chocolate:
and anything related to it:
Chocolate not being on my repertoire much, I opted for the fabulous chestnut cream “Mont Blanc”:
I went to the cathedral where a thousand Santas were busy clicking away on their cameras,
and a thousand candles promised to fulfill wishes…
By the end of the day, I was one of the few without a red hat,
Alsace’s emblem is a stork—you see them everywhere:
I couldn’t resist buying my first real mistletoe:
and looking at the holly,
I went to see the Fine Arts Museum:
where I revisited “the beautiful woman from Strasbourg”:
and the fabulous dutch still life paintings and my favorite Kessel insects of course:
By the time I got out it was getting dark but the market was still hustling and bustling,
This whole trip almost made me forget Copenhagen’s climate summit, the American Health Bill disaster and the Swiss minarets…
Have a golden Christmas everybody!
2010 World Cup Draw and the Group of Death
December 6th, 2009
The 2010 World Cup draw was two days ago and I watched it for the first time live on Swiss TV; I am a big soccer fan and it was exciting to see the world gasp waiting for the final draw in Cape Town.
There is as usual a group of death:
Group G
Brazil
North Korea
Ivory Coast
Portugal
where 3 of the 4 teams are known to have formidable soccer players.
These are my picks for the first round and yes I am brave enough to put my name on it!
The five time champion, Brazil, faces Portugal, Ivory Coast and North Korea in this very strong group G.
One of my most popular blog posts has been “Gerd Muller, where are you?” and I labored over these images of my favorite childhood soccer players like Muller himself:
and the prince, Beckenbauer, then and now:
“I don’t understand/like baseball and I tolerate American football only when my alma mater, USC, is playing but soccer stays close to my heart…There is a hierarchy of course like in any sport: we have princes and kings, Brazilian Gods and black pearls and panthers, even a black spider (the Russian Yashin)!
There is hand of God (Maradona) and real God (Pele):”
Jairzinho,
George Best,
the Charlton brothers,
Eusebio,
and last but not least, Michel Platini,
who would certainly give a red card to Thierry Henry after his handball disqualified the stunned Irish team at the qualifier match for the World cup which would be from June 11th through July 11th in South Africa.
To see my favorite post, “Gerd Muller, where are you?”, go here.
To see the full schedule on FIFA’s site go here.
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