Paris got lost in the debates, the bailout and Paul Newman
October 5th, 2008
These are scary times and as much as I wanted to, I couldn’t bring myself into making a light post about the beauties of the old world…
I watched the debates in awe, witnessed the bickering over the financial bailout with disbelief and then Paul Newman died and I had the Paris Blues… Watch this magnificent trailer of Newman and Sidney Poitier in Paris of the 60’s.
Did anybody looked cooler than this guy? Beautiful man with a more beautiful heart. Smoking killed him.
Paris remains splendid in spite of all the bad news I have been getting from home—a walk through Place des Vosges at night washed away some of that.
The infernal crowds finally went home and left Isle Saint Louis in peace:
The best remedy— albeit temporary —for the blues is a visit to the Patisserie. Just looking at them can send you to the hospital…
I am not a chocolate or a strawberry person but I would kill for a Religieuse Café!
Window watching is a pleasure in this “walking city”,
Nobody has the money to buy any of these overpriced un-necessities anymore.
United States is trying to absolve itself from its sins and Europe will follow…
This one reminds me of the “poustines” we were wearing as kids back home:
Beautiful Mansard roofs are breathtaking:
but not enough to make me forget this:
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I’m not sure about the universe. Einstein
Kertész and me: “on reading”
September 8th, 2008
I am a bibliophile and not ashamed to admit it! I love good books, and as much as I read online, paper and ink remain sacred to me. My love for books is thanks to my father’s great library of classics.
I went to the Los Angeles Central Library looking for some books and I couldn’t resist taking these pictures and sharing them with you. This library burnt in 1986—something about burning books fills me up with utter sadness and an enormous sense of loss (remember Fahrenheit 451?)
To see the most beautiful libraries of the world visit this site. We need these in a world where “print” increasingly resembles an endangered species.
The books that were somewhat burnt yet still salvageable are so fragile that they have to be kept in special boxes. You can still see the black soot on them:
You can’t check out the more damaged ones because of their fragility like this one:
The good news is that there are thousands of wonderful and “healthy” books in this library and the reading rooms are very pleasant.
This is one book I have promised myself to read one day:
But who has the courage to even contemplate these ones:
André Kertész’s newly reissued photo essay “On Reading“, features 66 images, taken between 1915 and 1970, of people enraptured by print.
“Kertész’s images celebrate the power and pleasure of this solitary activity and capture the deeply personal, yet universal moment of reading. This poetic book that has long been out of print is even more compelling today in a world where “print” increasingly resembles an endangered species.”
Even if Jeff Gomez argues that we are at a Gutenbergian moment, in which writers, publishers and readers must make the jump from paper to the more fluid territory of the screen, I can’t imagine being without the smell and the feel of paper.
I still print everything serious that I want to read because staring at my screen bothers my eyes.
“Books won’t stay banned. They won’t burn. Ideas won’t go to jail. In the long run of history, the censor and the inquisitor have always lost. The only sure weapon against bad ideas is better ideas.” Alfred Whitney
Speaking of great photographers, I went to Melvin Sokolsky’s opening night last thursday at Fahey/Klein Gallery. I’ve had the privilege of taking a “Master Class” at UCLA with him some years ago. His pictures have remained as fresh as the day he took them and unbruised by time.
Coffee from paradise
August 17th, 2008
I had the best coffee in Los Angeles last week at Caffé Luxxe. Following a tip from the director of Coffee Quality Institute—aka the Cupper Gods—I experienced the joy of having a real espresso outside europe: “espresso should have a rich honey-like texture topped off with a velvety, dark red-brown “crema.” This is the sign of una bella tazza di espresso: a beautiful cup of espresso.”
Here is my first cappuccino:
I was so sick and tired of (at best mediocre and at worst just plain bad) coffee served in the chain stores. The horror in the eyes of my european friends after receiving a bit of bitter coffee in the bottom of a big paper cup has always amused me! It looks like they are serving you what’s left from the previous customer…
I went back this morning for an early cup and standing at the counter, Italian bar style, I read a horrifying article about Putin and Georgia (call me a masochist) and remembered all the problems I was trying to forget… The great coffee brought back the vanished smile to my face!
They have a great Synesso machine and Yaniv, the talented barista creates these fabulous cups with panache! To see how, watch this short clip and if you have a better attention span (read more than 30 seconds) watch this one on the craft of making coffee art.
So is coffee good for us? An excellent article on the subject by Jane Brody in New York Times has some answers.
Finding a European style café that serves great espresso in Los Angeles can almost make one forget the world’s problems. Now If you really want to be scared just look at this map from Le Monde Diplomatique.
How is that for a nightmare in the making? Not only we are not at the End of History but people like Fukumaya should start paying attention to the latest conflict involving Russia! You take Kosovo, we take Georgia and Moldova!! Be scared people, be very scared…
“I cannot forecast to you the action of Russia. It is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma: but perhaps there is a key. That key is Russian national interests.” Winston Churchill
These are sobering times - now you know why I needed to find a good cup of joe.
The best cartoons I’ve seen lately
August 3rd, 2008
A great cartoon can make you want to laugh, cry, and think all at once. These are the best cartoons I’ve seen lately:
Massoud Ziaei’s works are little gems:
and for the bibliophile:
The following are from this young cartoonist:
his humor is getting darker:
and darker:
I laughed a lot seeing this one from Hamid Bahrami right after the batman movie:
I love his light/bright sense of humor:
There are some very sad cartoons:
the quiet gnawing pain of children of divorce.
After the great masters, Ardeshir Mohassess,
and Kambiz Derambakhsh,
these young artists— mentioned earlier—bring in a sense of freshness. This is a very funny one called frustration from Randall Munroe:
and one from the late Roger Blachon:
and this from Roger Tetsu (passed away in 2008 like Blachon—bad year for cartoonists named Roger):
and last but not least, one from the great Sempé…
I found this fabulous Russian site that archives many cartoonists’ work; once you’re in, there is no coming out soon…
Babooshka dolls and Franz Kafka in Prague
July 13th, 2008
You would think Prague is all about Kafka, Mucha and Dvorak but it’s really about these dolls - the Babooshka dolls are everywhere in Praha:
I would like to share my last trip to this beautiful city with you. I stayed in this fabulous hotel where everything but the view to the river was red (my favorite color)
these exquisite chandeliers are the pride and joy of the Czech Republic.
this is the view from my room:
and this one
Just look at Frank Gehry’s edifice in the middle of these gorgeous buildings set on the shore of a shallow branch of the Vltava river - these tiny pictures are really not doing it justice.
First the sun was shining,
then it was raining like hell,
and then this amazing double rainbow; talking about a room with a view…
Prague is a city of posters,
and the capital of caryatids! Paris will never get close to these gorgeous men and women.
these two weren’t talking to each other:
but these two were - for an eternity.
I woke up at 6 in the morning and took the tramway to Charles bridge - the only time in the day that it’s a bit quiet. Cities are majestic in the morning blue hour.
The astronomical clock is the main tourist attraction.
Speaking of Kafka, he’s omnipresent:
and here and everywhere…
Beautiful city/people/pastries/absinthe (I brought some mean ones back to L.A.)
All and all, the Czech republic has shown gargantuan progress in a few years since the fall of communism - if only it stayed as inexpensive as the first time I visited…
“A book must be the ax for the frozen sea inside us” Franz Kafka
A night with some dry drunk Persians
July 6th, 2008
I got drunk on music at Frank Gehry’s last night along with two thousand other people. Even though independence day usually is accompanied by the two Adamses - Samuel (the beer), and John (the second president) - this year was different.
It was amazing : an Iranian music ensemble called “Mastan” or the drunks, with its director/vocalist, Parvaz Homaye, performed at Walt Disney music hall. The astonishing thing is that this group lives and performs in Iran and has chosen a name and lyrics laced with wine/intoxication/breaking repentance/dissent/hope… The young vocalist actually played on two big jugs - khomreh - that begged to be full of wine like Jesus’ in the marriage of cana!
How the mullahs managed to asphyxiate 70 million people by depriving them of music and wine is beyond my comprehension… Just look at these paintings: where there is music, there is wine. The concert last night proved that if you take the wine out of a Persian’s life, he’ll continue to sing about it! Move your mouse on the images to see a description of the paintings and the year they were created.
These instruments have not changed in centuries but the music has evolved. I love this painting of Kamancheh (upright fiddle), tar and daf:
This gorgeous painting in a palace in Isfahan from around 1670:
Last but not least is this funny looking dude playing a lute:
Passionate improvisation is the basis of Persian classical music. Watch this clip to see some hard core first-rate Persian musicians - Kayhan Kalhor on kemancheh (spike fiddle), Hussein Alizadeh on tar (lute), Shajarian on vocals, and his son on tombak (hand drum) - warning to the uninitiate: there is heavy duty yodeling! I couldn’t resist adding these pictures of the great Kalhor playing and Yo-Yo Ma watching - they collaborated on the Silk Road Project:
Watch the Mastan here - they will be performing in San Francisco, San Diego and Washington D.C. this July.
صبح است ساقیا قدحی پرشراب کن
دور فلک درنگ ندارد شتاب کن
زان پیشتر که عالم فانی شود خراب
ما را ز جام باده گلگون خراب کن
A Persian in Venice
June 2nd, 2008
My smile got bigger and bigger as I continued listening to Professor Riccardo Zipoli talking about Iran in his near perfect Persian; but then I got a bit frustrated remembering that in spite of speaking three languages myself, I have to applaud every non-Persian who can say 4 words in my mother tongue! Listen to him talk here to see what I mean by Zipoli’s flawless Persian.
These two pictures are from the Professor’s huge archive. He has a soft spot for the rural landscape/people of Iran.
Born near Florence, teaching in Venice, reciting Sohrab Sepehri better than most of the natives has endeared Zipoli to Persians. I particularly like his Tree series. You can find more of his pictures on his site.
Looking at these images made me nostalgic so I went to look for some pictures from my last trip to Iran about 14 years ago. Here is one of my favorites from the Shah’s Mosque in Isfahan, a marvel of Safavid art. I still remember my awe in front of all these magnificent architectural wonders.
“If you come to visit me
Come gently and slowly lest the fragile china
Of my solitude cracks”
به سراغ من اگر ميآييد،
نرم و آهسته بياييد، مبادا كه ترك بردارد
چيني نازك تنهايي من
“Si vous venez m’y chercher,
Venez-vous-en donc lentement et doucement
De crainte que ne se raye
La porcelaine de ma solitude.” Sohrab Sepehri
And for all of you people who are still looking for a Persian in Venice, I am sharing this picture I took some years ago.
Picasso, Monet, Warhol and Pollock in Tehran
April 6th, 2008
Farah Pahlavi, the queen of Iran, is still alive and well, but people are not talking about her much. Things changed when it was reported last month that “the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art has put on display an exhibition that art experts call the most important collection of modern Western art outside Europe and the United States.” In the 1970’s she collected great works of art - about 150 paintings - by Picasso, Monet, Andy Warhol, Jackson Pollock, etc…
I bought some old Paris Match magazines some years ago in Paris spanning from 1958 through 1969. It was interesting to see her on the cover from practically the minute she met the Shah in Paris. I put some of the photos from Paris Match together to share them with you.
She lived a Cinderella story that turned sour at the age of 41 after the Iranian revolution of 1979.
In spite of my belief that monarchy is stupid in the 21st century, it seems like I can’t shake my affinity for this woman; the fact that we both went to the same school (Jeanne d’Arc of Tehran) and had to endure the same French nuns may not have much to do with it.
The deposed queen has somehow survived the animosity that follows the Pahlavis wherever they go. At the minimum she should be applauded for amassing a collection of priceless art, as opposed to worthless shoes or stolen jewelry (see Queen Elizabeth and Imelda Marcos).
Her good reputation lasted way longer than her jewelry.
The lost art of Conversation in the 21st century
March 30th, 2008
Sadly many new technologies have contributed to increasing our isolation (TV, iPods, etc.) but it doesn’t have to be that way.
As children, we start the conversation by playing together, as young adults our conversations become intense but something strange happens in midlife: all those ideals sediment in our heads and we get comfortable in our somehow more quiet and prosaic lives - we sink gradually to the bottom of our minds.
Unfortunately for many of us, by the time we get to old age, the conversation has died down completely or has diminished to a competition about who’s more sick and who’s children are more ungrateful - Man dies in solitude and silence…
To fight the loneliness of it all, we compromise our standards/principles and settle with a wide array of less than par exchange of ideas.
Sharing opinions, ideas and images is my motivation for blogging. Ideally a post can be the start of a conversation; the Internet equivalent of sitting down in front of a cup of coffee (make it tea) to relax and shoot the breeze. The conversation is at the root of creativity and it can help change our mindsets.
To make the conversation flow easier, it’s now possible to be notified by e-mail when someone makes a comment on the same post you have. All you have to do is check the little box labeled “Notify me of follow up comments via e-mail”, which appears below your comment.
There have been so many great comments and I can’t mention them all, but here are some of my favorites:
- Ali (he has his own fan club among my readers!) on “Leaf peeping” in L.A.
- Lily Daryabegi on Suicide, a fundamental human right
- Entropy quoting a poem by Tagore
- Melvin Sokolsky on Contagious enthusiasm: Gustavo Dudamel
- Tamas Ungvari on Matters of the heart
- BMZ on Ahmadinejad, Bush and Sarkozy: fatal combination
- Gens Deau on Africa exasperates me
- Anousheh on Southern California is burning - sudden and intense changes…
One of my favorite thinkers, Theodore Zeldin believes that “conversation is a meeting of minds with different memories and habits - it doesn’t just reshuffle the cards it creates new cards.” I agree with him when he says “we are increasingly leading bubble lives in which we insulate ourselves from everyone apart from an ever diminishing circle of friends and acquaintances.”
A good conversation starter would be this very funny NY Times article about the books that end love stories.
No Ruz, Norouz, haft-seen, haft-sheen, etc…
March 17th, 2008
Happy New Year to all of you hamvatans! These are some pictures of the ghost of Nowruz past and present. I remember new shoes, the intoxicating scent of hyacinths, the goldfish and the mint bills - and of course the sound of naghareh when the year changes.
No Ruz is the day when life’s glory is celebrated; it usually occurs on March 21st or the previous/following day depending on where it is observed. It’s a feast of renewal and freshness - No (new) Ruz (day).
It has often been suggested that the famous Persepolis Complex, or at least the palace of Apadana and Hundred Columns Hall, were built for the specific purpose of celebrating Noruz by Darius the Great (522 -485 BC). It is celebrated in other countries as well as Iran. Tajikistan is one of them.
In spite of trying hard, the islamic republic of Iran has not been able to erase this semi-pagan spring festival; they have tried to replace Zarathustra’s spring equinox celebration with the muslim eyds to no avail.
The original haft sheen or seven sh’s were: Sharab (wine), Shekar (sugar), Sham (Candle), Shir (milk), Sharbat (Sherbet), Shaneh (comb), Shahd (nectar) but they were replaced by seven S’s to eliminate sharab (wine) after the arab conquest.
The haft seen is made of:
Sabzeh – wheat or lentil sprouts growing in a dish symbolizing rebirth
Samanu - pudding made of wheat symbolizing wealth
Senjed – dried fruit of Jujube tree symbolizing love
Seer - garlic symbolizing medicine
Seeb – apples symbolizing beauty and health
Somaq – sumac berries symbolizing the sun
Serkeh – vinegar symbolizing age
Sonbol – hyacinth flower symbolizing the arrival of spring
Sekkeh - gold coins symbolizing prosperity and wealth
Too much information, wouldn’t you say?
“Pourquoi les hommes ne savent-ils pas
Que la capucine n’est pas un hasard…” Sepehri
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